June 17, 2012

Final Dress Toile.

It's getting more exciting now... Toile...

I lay out my fabric for my toile and pinned my pattern pieces on top.
I then cut these out.


I inserted my darts into the front of my dress. 
This is the darts from the inside of my garment.


My darts from the outside of the garment.


I inserted the invisible zip into the left hand side of my garment.


This is the zip from the inside of my garment.


I then sewed down from the zip to the bottom of my dress with a 1cm SA.
The bottoms of my dress are slightly off.


I then sewed my shoulder seam on a 1cm SA.


My shoulder seam on the inside of my dress.


I then attached the sleeve, this is so difficult! I had to make sure I didn't get any little folds as I sewed it together and also make sure it was all evened out equally. (Again sew with a 1cm SA.)


A close up of my sleeve seam.


My whole sleeve seam.


I now had to sew from the tip of the sleeve all the way down to the bottom of my dress, this is a lot easier than it sounds, trust me! 


I have to make sure my tension is ok first or it will bobble like this.


I then fitted it to a size 14 mannequin and took it in just about 2cm on each side and make my left dart larger by 1cm. I also took 2cm off each side of my sleeve.


My 2cm pinned on the left side.


My 2cm pinned under the sleeve.


Making my adjustments. 
(UNPICK THE WHOLE DRESS!)
This is simple, draw my new design lines onto my patterns, from the top of my sleeve diagonally to the bottom, and cut this off.
Lay it on top of my fabric piece and cut off the excess fabric.


Do the same as I did to the sleeve to my back piece.


And again on my front piece...


My added 1cm on my dart.


This is what it will look like before the trimming.

Now... Re-attach the whole dress, this didn't take long this time round as I knew exactly what I was doing and it took me about half an hour.

The lining toile...


It took me FORVER to find some scrap fabric, but eventually a girl in my group found me some.
For this I do pretty much exactly as I did to my lining except I don't put a zip in.


To do this I measured how long my zip was (it was about 19cm) and I sewed down from where the zip would end to the bottom of the dress.
I then attached the rest of dress as I did before except this time it was the opposite way around.

Fitting the Lining...


To attach the lining I began by attaching the zip... 
I did this by folding back the zip tape and sewing the lining to the tape.


I then sewed around the neck line making sure I match the seams at the shoulder and sides.


My matched seams.


The lining and shell pinned at the neck.


My lining sewn to the shell of the dress all done.


My finished lining.
On the final I will do a retaining stitch around the neck.

What do you think?

XOXO

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