April 25, 2012

Are you ready to get your shirt on?

I know you've been waiting a seriously LONG time for this, but it's finally here...


The shirt manufacture!!!


Pinning and Cutting the Fabric and Interfacing.
-Lay out fabric and place on the pattern pieces.
(I did this wrong as not all my pieces fit on the fabric so I menouvered the pieces around cut things out seperately. My cuffs, yoke, bias binding and collar are also black on one side.)
-Pin and cut out.
-I also cut out interfacing for the collar, button stand, cuffs and yoke, these were all ironed onto the wrong side of the fabric.


Button Stand. 
-Iron on interfacing to the button stand (on the front of the shirt) and fold on the notches.
Fold under by 1.5cm, sew a top stitch on the button stand down the edge.
(This, I will tell you now is NOT easy!!!)

This is my button stand pinned and ready to be sewn.
Box Pleat. 
-Iron in the box pleat at the back of the shirt. Sew this 1cm with NO backtack.
-Sew on the yoke 1.5cm on top of the pleat. Iron this so it is perfect. (Slightly pull.)

This is an image of the box pleat, yoke and collar. Sorry for any confusion. 
Yoke, Front and Back.
-For the yoke I had to sandwhich the back of my shirt between the two yoke pieces. Making sure the right sides were together.
-To attach my front pieces to the back I had to pin right sides together at the shoulder with a 1.5cm seam allowance.
-When sewn I overlocked the seams.

Sorry about the side view.
This is my pinned yoke, it took me so long and so many pins to do this bit. HA!
Pockets.
-Sew the pockets right sides together 1.5cm, leaving a gap to bag it out.
-I had to pin the pocket onto the front of shirt where I wanted it.
Sewing the pocket really close to the edge with small triangle in the top left and right corner to add durablity and a design feature. I put my pocket on at an angle and folded over a corner, to hold this in place I added a button.
(My pocket went completely wrong the first time so I redid it with a more durable fabric and took more time on it.) I prefer my new pocket, don't you?

This is my pocket and my garment. I am  giving you the instructions differently to how I did it, as I had to re-do  my pocket.
Close up view!!! I love it!!! Sorry about it being on the side! 
Collar.
-Pin and stitch the two collar pieces, right side to right side.
-Reduce the bulk by cutting the corners and the excess material from the edge.
-Bag out and iron. (Pull a little to get it perfect.)
-Sandwhich the collar between the two collar stand pieces and stich together.
-Reduce the bulk, bag out and iron, just like on the collar.
-Attach the collar to the neck using the notches and even our the fabric. Sew 1.5cm.


The collar and collar stand all sewn together.
My collar stood up. (Not sure if that's the right terminology. Ha!)
My collar on a front view.
My collar from a side view.
Sleeves and body.
-To create the vent in the sleeve I had to slash upto the point on the sleeve I wanted it to be.
-To create a more professional edge on the vent I created bias binding by cutting two strips 4cm wide just slightly longer then my vents on the bias of my fabric.
-Sew the bias binding onto the wrong side of the fabric with a 1cm seam allowance.
-When I got the corner of the vent it got really tricky and I had to slight slice up the vent about 1cm so I could manouver around the corner.
-Iron this under and under again, this isn't easy either!
-Top stitch as close to the edge as humanly possible.
-Sew right side to right side, a diagonal line across the corner of the bias binding so it is a closed corner. I know that sounded complicated but it's easiest bit of bias binding! Ha!
-Attach the sleeve to the shoulder, right side to right side.
-Sew up the side and round down the arm and overlock, this closed up my shirt, turn these the right way.


My right sleeve.
My left sleeve.
My 'photographic' shot of my nearly done shirt. I was very proud of this! Ha!
My inside seam. It was so neat! 
First half of my bias binding. Then it got DIFFICULT!!!
My sewn bias binding curve, this was REALLY complicated! Ha!
My complete bias binding. So proud!
The full curve.
Both completely done!! 
Cuff.
-Sew the two cuff pieces right side to right side. Reduce the bulk and bag it out, like the collar.
-Sew two rows of tacking stitch with a back tack at only one end of each row. (Sew these either side of the 1.5cm point.)
-Pull these strings to create a ruffle the same size as the cuff.
-To sew on the cuff properly; sew right side to right side.
-Turn the cuff over and top stitch.
-Now undo the ruffle threads.


My ruffles. 
My sewn cuff.
My sewn cuff reverse.
Cuff pinned to the ruffles. Sorry you can't see it but the pins are visible slightly.
My cuff pinned to ruffles. You can see it now! Ha! 
The cuff folded over the ruffles ready for a top stitch!
The right side of my fabric. Excited I'm nearly done!!
My completed cuff!!!!!! YAY!!!
Hem.
-Over lock the whole of the bottom.
-Turn under; just so the overlock is folded under.
-Fold under again this time between 1 and 1.5cm.


Buttons and Button Holes.
-Measure the length of the button stand and equally measure in the buttons.
-Do the same on the opposite side so as to create the button holes.
-I had to make sure I put buttons and button holes on my collar stand and cuffs too.


My button hole markings.
All buttoned up!
Hem.
-To complete the hem I overlocked my raw edge, folded up the overlocking, I then folded it under again.
-To keep this folded I ironed and pinned it.
-To complete my shirt I sewed this very close to the edge with a neat row of straight stitch.

Folded once.
Folded twice. 
My completed hem.
So proud of my sewing, it went so straight!!! Ha!


FINAL SHIRT!!!
My FINAL shirt!!! 
My 'photographic' view, slightly on the side.
My 'photographic' view of my collar and buttons.
My 'photographic' view of my sleeve, pocket and buttons.


What do you think?
Do you like?
I love it!!!




XOXO

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